By Olivia Bennett for Wonders of the World
Finally, I’m in Europe.
Savona — modest, unpretentious Savona — is the kind of place that doesn’t try to impress you at first glance. From the highway, all you see are cranes, shipyards, and the silhouettes of massive vessels in the harbor. It’s one of Liguria’s regional industrial centers, a working port, not a postcard town. But as I soon discovered, once you wander into its historic heart, Savona reveals herself as a city of quiet surprises.
I told myself I’d stop here just for a day — I’m traveling across Europe for a month, between cruises and new stories — but something about this place drew me in. Maybe it was curiosity, or maybe it was just the feeling that Savona had more to show me than I expected.
It’s Halloween today. Back home in the States, that means carved pumpkins, costume parties, and kids running wild on sugar highs. Here, it’s gentler — just a few pumpkins in restaurant windows, a paper ghost or two hanging from the ceiling. I smile at the subtlety of it all. Italians don’t overdo; they hint.
Victoria, my dear friend, told me something that stuck:
“Savona is a daytime city. Everything feels quiet — unless you know where to look.”
And of course, where else to start but the market?
The Market’s Chaos and Charm
The Mercato Civico is everything I adore about Italy in one place — noisy, colorful, human. Vendors shout across their stands, hands flying as they bargain, tease, or praise their seafood. The air is thick with the scent of salt, fresh lemons, and the sea itself. I wander between baskets of anchovies, pink shrimp, shiny tomatoes, and the chatter of life happening in real time.
When hunger finally wins, I follow Victoria’s advice and stop at Osteria Bacco — a place that feels like stepping into someone’s storybook. It’s the locals’ favorite, partly for the seafood, mostly for the soul. The entire room is cluttered with model ships, airplanes, hot air balloons, even a few witch hats and soccer jerseys. Old radios line the counter, and scraps of paper with handwritten notes cover the walls. The floor is a black-and-white checkerboard, the chairs are red, and the door is so small you could walk right past it.
Lunch? Divine. Spaghetti alle vongole veraci, gnocchi agli scampi, and antipasto misto mare — all perfect choices.
Caffè and People-Watching
After lunch, Victoria leads me to her favorite café at the corner of Via alla Maddalena. “It doesn’t look like much,” she says with a grin, “but trust me.” She’s right. From the outside, it’s utterly plain; inside, it’s a stage for everyday life. Nuns, old couples, elegant businessmen, and children on scooters — everyone passes through.
I order a caffè con la crema, that heavenly espresso topped with whipped cream, and sit back to watch the world go by. Simple pleasures — that’s what Italy teaches you best.
A Secret Chapel and a Slice of History
Did you know there are two Sistine Chapels in Italy? I didn’t.
“The other one’s our little secret,” Victoria tells me.
Here in Savona stands the Cappella Sistina di Savona, commissioned in the 1480s by Pope Sixtus IV — yes, the same pope who built the famous one in Rome. He wanted a resting place for his parents, right here in his hometown.
It’s smaller, quieter, but breathtaking in its own way — golden canopies, black-and-white mosaic tiles, and walls hand-painted centuries ago. From the outside, you’d never guess the beauty within. Admission is just three euros, and it’s open only on weekends — Saturday and Sunday, 10 to noon and 4 to 6. I’ll save it for after my cruise; today’s Friday, and I’ve already learned that Italian opening hours are an adventure of their own.
The Unexpected Apple Museum
And just when I thought I’d seen it all — I stumble upon the All About Apple Museum. Yes, an Apple museum! It’s one of those places you’d never find unless you had an Italian friend or were an absolute Apple devotee. Founded in 2002, it claims to be the world’s most comprehensive Apple museum, with every computer, accessory, and prototype the company ever made since 1976.
You can book a guided tour or just drop by — but, of course, only on weekends.
Halloween Night in the Port
As night falls, the port transforms. I follow the sound of laughter and music to a small bar called Birrò, tucked between other tiny spots overlooking the harbor. It’s barely more than a hole in the wall — maybe twenty people can squeeze inside — but the real fun happens outside. Locals lean against the stone wall, drinks in hand, the sea glimmering under the streetlights.
It’s not a wild American-style Halloween, but there’s joy here — simple, warm, spontaneous. Dolce far niente, Italian-style.
And when the night grows late (or early), there’s only one place to go: La Bottega del Pane. Open 24/7, this bakery supplies half the city with bread and pastries — and feeds the other half after midnight. Focaccia, pizza slices, croissants, brioche, tarts — the scent alone could make you fall in love with life again.
I grab a piece of warm focaccia, still crisp from the oven, and think of how far I’ve come.
Tomorrow, I set sail — five days aboard Costa. But tonight, I’m simply grateful: for this quiet city, for friendship, and for the freedom to discover the world, one small wonder at a time.