Every year, as October draws to a close, Tuscany dresses in gold. The air grows cooler, the light turns honeyed, and a question begins to stir:
Will you celebrate Halloween, or wait for All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day?
Tradition or innovation?
Or perhaps, like most Tuscans, you’ll embrace both — enjoying the pumpkin pies and brownies of Halloween and the pan co’ santi of Ognissanti, the sweet, dense bread filled with raisins and walnuts.
Old Tales, New Flames
My friend Louise reminded me recently that Tuscany’s connection to Halloween goes deeper than one might think. Long before American pumpkins arrived with rock and roll and chocolate bars, her mother, Violetta, used to carve a big yellow pumpkin on the eve of All Saints’ Day — cutting eyes, a nose, and a crooked smile. She would place a candle inside and set it on the edge of the well, its flickering shadows dancing across the old stone walls.
It was called la morte secca — “the dry death” — a haunting welcome to the solemn feast that carried whispers of ancient pagan rituals.
Indeed, Halloween and All Saints’ Day share the same roots: a time when the worlds of the living and the dead drew closest.
For the Romans, it was the festival of Pomona, goddess of abundance and harvest; for the Celts, Samhain, the turning of the seasons from life to rest, from harvest to the sleep of winter. Tuscany, as always, found its own poetic balance — celebrating life’s sweetness even as it honors the silence of its passing.
A Tuscan Feast for Both Worlds
With Louise arriving next week, I’m planning to bake her a traditional pan co’ santi for All Saints’ Day — a recipe filled with memories and meaning.
But since our younger guests are more likely to show up for Halloween — hungry after work and before the night’s parties — I’m preparing an entire menu that bridges the two worlds: traditional and modern, comforting and a little bit eerie.
Here’s what’s on my Tuscan Halloween table this year:
🎃 Pumpkin and Goat Cheese Tian
An elegant yet simple dish that celebrates autumn’s colors. Layers of roasted pumpkin and creamy goat cheese, perfumed with rosemary — a perfect start to an October dinner.
🍂 Pumpkin Gnocchi with Forest Aroma
Soft and delicate, these gnocchi capture the earthy scent of the woods. Tossed in a butter-sage sauce, they bring warmth and comfort to chilly evenings — a nod to both Italian tradition and Halloween indulgence.
🍫 Spooky Brownies
Rich, fudgy, and delightfully dark — these chocolate brownies are a must for Halloween night. Decorate them with spiderwebs of white chocolate or tiny sugar ghosts for a playful twist that never fails to impress.
And of course, the pan co’ santi will be there too, standing proudly beside these new traditions — a reminder that in Tuscany, the past always finds a seat at the table.
Every year, my Halloween table turns into something a little different — and a little more extravagant. The decorations are never quite the same: dramatic centerpieces, glowing pumpkins, and details that somehow reflect my own personality — a blend of creativity, elegance, and a hint of theatrical flair.
Our friends — and my son’s friends — can’t wait to see “this year’s masterpiece.” It’s become a small tradition: laughter, music, glasses clinking, and that moment when everyone steps in and lets out a little wow.
Because that’s the magic of it all — celebrating not just Halloween or Ognissanti, but the joy of creating beauty, sharing food, and making memories that last long after the candles have burned out.
Pan co’ Santi – Tuscan “Bread of the Saints”
A dense, aromatic Tuscan celebration bread filled with walnuts, raisins, and a touch of red wine – Pan co’ Santi is one of Tuscany’s most beloved autumn traditions. Sweet yet rustic, it’s typically baked for All Saints’ Day, when every bakery in Siena and the surrounding hills fills with the comforting scent of spiced dough and toasted nuts.
This festive loaf tells a story of harvest, faith, and family gatherings – a recipe passed down through generations and still baked every year as the first chill of November arrives.
🕒 Preparation Time
- Prep: 15 minutes
- Rising: 16 hours
- Baking: 50 minutes
- Total: about 17 hours
🥣 Ingredients
For the poolish (starter)
- 200 g strong flour
- 200 g water
- 1 g fresh yeast
For the main dough
- 250 g raisins
- 100 g extra virgin olive oil
- 300 g walnuts, shelled
- 50 g sugar
- 50 g warm water
- 5 g fresh yeast
- 600 g “00” or all-purpose flour
- 150 ml red wine
- 1 tsp salt
- ½ tsp black pepper
- 1 egg yolk, for brushing
👩🍳 Instructions
Step 1. Prepare the poolish
The night before, dissolve the yeast in water and mix with the flour until smooth and slightly liquid. Cover with cling film and let it rest for 10–12 hours at room temperature.
Step 2. Prepare the raisin–walnut mix
Soak the raisins in warm water for about 15 minutes, then drain them. In a pan, heat the extra virgin olive oil and add the chopped walnuts, drained raisins, and sugar. Cook gently for a few minutes until fragrant, then remove from heat and let cool.
Step 3. Make the dough
Add the flour, the poolish, the yeast dissolved in warm water, and the walnut–raisin mixture into a mixing bowl. Knead gently, adding the red wine little by little until you get a smooth, elastic dough that comes away easily from your hands. Add the salt and pepper and knead for another minute.
Transfer the dough to an oiled surface, shape it into a ball, and let rise for about 2 hours or until doubled in size.
Step 4. Shape and bake
Once risen, divide the dough into two loaves. Cut a cross on each, cover, and let rise again until doubled. Brush with egg yolk and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F) for about 50 minutes.
Let cool completely and rest for at least one day before serving — this allows the flavors to deepen and the crumb to firm up.
Store wrapped in a linen cloth or paper bag.
🍷 Serving suggestion
Enjoy Pan co’ Santi with a glass of Vin Santo or a drizzle of new-season olive oil — a bite of Tuscan autumn that bridges Halloween’s playfulness and All Saints’ quiet reflection.