Step into the heart of Florence and experience a side of the city that feels both timeless and alive. From the awe-inspiring Santa Croce Basilica, resting place of Michelangelo and Galileo, to the adrenaline-fueled spectacle of Calcio Storico, Florence reveals its history, culture, and local passions in ways that textbooks simply can’t capture.
Florence has many faces, but few reveal the city’s spirit as deeply as Santa Croce, one of its four historic quarters.
It takes its name from the Basilica di Santa Croce, often called “The Temple of Italian Glories” — a title earned by those who rest within its walls: Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo Galilei among them.
Yet Santa Croce is more than a monument to genius. It’s a living neighborhood where the past breathes through every stone and every piazza hums with everyday life.
From the Market to the Masterpieces
One Friday morning, after wandering through the Sant’Ambrogio market and sipping coffee at Cibrèo, I walked toward Santa Croce.
Even under the grey sky, the basilica’s marble façade seemed to glow — calm, solemn, magnificent.
It’s hard to imagine now, but centuries ago this area was an island, formed by two branches of the Arno River. When the Franciscans arrived in Florence in the early 13th century, they chose this marshy land outside the city walls to build their church. The open space allowed for great crowds to gather and listen to their sermons.
The vast Piazza Santa Croce soon became a meeting place for faith, politics, and public life — and remains one of Florence’s most captivating squares.
The Basilica of Santa Croce
For more than three centuries, the façade of Santa Croce was made only of pietraforte sandstone.
It wasn’t until the 19th century — when the church was transformed into a pantheon for Italy’s great minds — that the architect Niccolò Matas completed the intricate marble decoration we see today.
Inside, the light filters through vivid stained-glass windows, illuminating a vast T-shaped interior divided by two rows of columns. The space feels both simple and majestic — like an open dialogue between heaven and earth.
Six chapels line the sides, each dedicated to powerful Florentine families.
The Cappella Maggiore glows with Agnolo Gaddi’s frescoes, depicting the Legend of the True Cross.
The Bardi and Peruzzi chapels are adorned with masterpieces by Giotto himself — silent witnesses to the dawn of the Renaissance.
On the right aisle rests Michelangelo, beneath a tomb designed by Giorgio Vasari.
Opposite him lies Galileo Galilei, whose resting place mirrors the eternal harmony between science and art.
The Cloisters and the Pazzi Chapel
Stepping outside, two serene cloisters await — one rectangular, one square.
In the latter stands the exquisite Pazzi Chapel, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, inspired by the symmetry of the Roman Pantheon.
Its geometry, light, and calm create a sense of divine proportion — a perfect example of Renaissance balance.
Don’t forget to look up: the bell tower framed by the sky is one of Florence’s most photogenic views.
Santa Croce Today
Piazza Santa Croce is not only a historic and spiritual hub but also the stage for the famous Calcio Storico Fiorentino, a spectacular ancient football game still played every June. During this event, the city’s districts compete in traditional costumes, bringing Renaissance Florence vividly to life.
Each year, the Piazza Santa Croce transforms for the Weihnachtsmarkt, Florence’s traditional German Christmas Market, filling the square with festive lights, wooden stalls, and the scent of cinnamon and mulled wine.
But Santa Croce is more than a postcard.
It’s a place where the sacred meets the everyday — where the weight of history feels lightened by beauty.
Even on a quiet, grey morning, standing before the basilica, you can feel what Florence truly means: not just art, but soul.