In every country, in every city, the first thing I do is seek out the market. For me, this is not just a habit but a passion: I believe the market is the soul of a city, where the vibrant life of locals, the flavors, scents, stories, and characters come alive. Having lived in Tuscany for years, I have discovered the most special markets here — and I can honestly say that several of them deserve a spot on the list of the world’s most extraordinary marketplaces.
Livorno – Our Own Louvre
Locals jokingly call Livorno’s central market, the Mercato Centrale, “Il nostro Louvre.” It’s no coincidence: designed in the 19th century with French-inspired architecture, it truly feels like walking into a museum. With more than 180 stalls offering everything imaginable — fresh fish, meats, vegetables, fruits, cheeses, coffee — the building itself is awe-inspiring. It’s a lively, pulsating space where elderly ladies exchange recipes at the fishmonger’s, young chefs pick out olive oils, and the whole place beats with a rhythm only Livorno can provide.
Florence – San Lorenzo and Sant’Ambrogio
Florence spoils you with markets, but for me, the two most special are San Lorenzo and Sant’Ambrogio.
San Lorenzo Market — just a few steps from the Duomo — is monumental. Designed by Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect behind Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, it was inspired by Paris’s Les Halles. Today it is the second-largest covered market in Europe. Though it’s increasingly popular with tourists, I still have my favorite spots where I dash in to shop — I’m even recognized by name.
I recommend starting your San Lorenzo visit outside, in the characteristic streets surrounding the Central Market building. Here you’ll find Florence’s famous leather market, selling mostly locally made bags, jackets, wallets, and various souvenirs. Walking among the colorful stalls, you feel like you’re wandering through a mix of an Eastern bazaar and a Florentine craft fair — a true kaleidoscope of colors, scents, and sounds.
The market’s rooftop is a culinary adventure on its own: various themed restaurants and bistros offer fresh pasta, pizza, lampredotto, fish, and all kinds of Tuscan delicacies, perfect for a quick lunch.
Sant’Ambrogio Market used to be my favorite — I used to shop there exclusively. But work pulled me away from that neighborhood. Still, I have favorite vendors I return to now and then. I’d start my mornings there with coffee at Caffetteria del Vecchio, then choose meats at Luca Menoni’s butcher shop — a true Florentine institution since 1921. At the back of the market, the small food court is home to Lorenzo’s unbeatable burgers — ten years in Miami definitely left a mark.
Mercato delle Cure – Small-Town Feel in the Heart of the City
Currently, Mercato delle Cure is my favorite in Florence. It has a small-town atmosphere, friendly sellers, and excellent ingredients — I quickly found “my” vendors there. I especially love buying from Sarah and Roberto’s stall — they always have kind words, a new recipe idea, or a perfectly timed recommendation.
Near the market is Pasticceria Veli, a Sicilian family bakery — every morning, a piece of Sicily in Florence.
Pisa – The Historic Market at Piazza delle Vettovaglie
The name Piazza delle Vettovaglie literally means “food square.” Built in the 16th century, this loggia-style square remains a vital part of Pisans’ lives. Stalls open early in the morning offering fresh produce; later, cafés, wine bars, and small restaurants take over. The market’s atmosphere is captivating — both historic and modern, quiet and vibrant at the same time.
Castelnuovo di Garfagnana – A Market Since the Middle Ages
Some markets have existed for centuries — such as Castelnuovo’s weekly market in Garfagnana, running every Thursday morning since 1430. Walking among the stalls, I always think about how many generations have done the same before me, touching the tomatoes, breathing in the scents. Here, the market is not an event — it’s tradition, rhythm, heritage.
For me, the market is not just a place to shop but an experience, a connection, and a source of inspiration — whether on a Florentine morning or a medieval square in Garfagnana. If you really want to understand Tuscany, don’t just visit the churches and museums — go to the market. That’s where the stories are born, stories no one else will tell for you.