Albania is still an unknown territory for many, but this Mediterranean country is full of surprises. Durres, one of the country’s oldest and most vibrant coastal towns, is the perfect place to discover the Albanian way of life. White sandy beaches, bustling restaurants, modern cafes and friendly locals await those who want to immerse themselves in a lesser-known but all the more exciting destination on the Adriatic coast.
History of Durres – from antiquity to the present day Durres is one of the oldest cities in Albania, founded in 627 BC by the Greeks as Epidamnos. Later the Romans took control and developed it into an important port city as Dyrrachium. It was also the starting point of the ancient Via Egnatia route, which connected the Adriatic with Byzantium. During the Middle Ages, the city was ruled by Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans, each of which added something to the present-day image of Durres. In the 20th century, under Albania’s communist regime, it became a major industrial centre, and after the change of regime it gradually opened up to tourism.
Durres today – where past and present meet Durres is not just an old Roman port city, but a modern, vibrant place where history and modern life exist in perfect harmony. During the day, locals and tourists alike enjoy a coffee on the terraces of the beachside bars, while in the evening, street musicians and beach clubs liven up the atmosphere. The heart of the town is the promenade, where you can enjoy a handcrafted ice cream while watching the ships come into port or simply enjoy the calm sea breeze.
What to see in Durres? There’s something for everyone in Durres, whether it’s history, beaches or gastronomy.
The first thing you’ll probably notice when visiting any Albanian city is that it has a thriving café culture. No matter what time of day you visit Durres, the café terraces are packed with friends, families and guests relaxing alone, enjoying a coffee and a local pastry. For a truly Albanian start to the day, wake up early, sip a coffee or fresh juice and relax in the morning sunshine.
Mon Cheri is a charming café in the heart of the city, while Mulliri Vjeter is a great choice if you’re looking for a cosy spot near the amphitheatre.
The Durres amphitheatre is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, with a history dating back to the 2nd century AD. It is the largest amphitheatre ever built in the Balkans, with an original capacity of 20 000 people.
From the amphitheatre in Durres, walk down to the beach and admire the old city walls that form Durres Castle. The walls were built at the end of the 5th century and, after repeated repairs throughout history, still stand today, making them the most important Roman remains in the city. The main part of Durres Castle is a structure called the Venetian Tower , which today houses a fashionable bar with rooftop seating, offering great views of the city and the water.
Walk along the Bulevardi Dyrrah to the main square of Durres and stop to admire the old Byzantine Forum and the Roman Baths – two fascinating archaeological sites that are free to visit.
The spacious town square is home to the Town Hall, the Aleksandër Moisiu Theatre and the impressive Xhamia E Madhe Mosque. The square, decorated with fountains, offers plenty of seating where you can relax, enjoy the view and soak up the city atmosphere.
The residence of King Zog: The Royal Villa of Durres, also known as Zogu House, was built in 1937 on the highest hill in the city and was once the summer residence of the royal family. The building was designed in neoclassical style by the Albanian architect Kristo Sotiri. This historic building is not only an architectural curiosity, but also a piece of Albania’s past that is well worth exploring. The front façade is decorated with a low relief of Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, Albania’s iconic leader. The villa offers a stunning panoramic view of the city and the sea, making the visit even more special.
In the afternoon, hop in a taxi and head to the Albaia Winery, just 10-15 minutes from Durres. This is a truly unique winery in the picturesque countryside of Albania, where tradition meets innovation. They make excellent local wines and raki from grapes grown in their own vineyards, but what makes them really unique is the ageing of the wines: they are aged in two rebuilt military bunkers! To learn more about this unique winemaking process, join daily tours and tastings. You can learn about the history of the bunkers, get a behind-the-scenes look at the winery and of course taste the winery’s best wines.This is not just a wine tasting – it’s a journey through the flavours, history and culture of Albania. If you love unique experiences, this is a place not to be missed! Read more about it here
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Tirana – a trip to the heart of Albania If you’re in Durres, it’s worth a day in Albania’s capital, Tirana, just an hour’s drive away. Tirana is modern and chaotic, but that’s what makes it so exciting. The bustle of Skanderbeg Square, the underground world of the Bunk’Art museum and the vibrant nightlife of the colourful Blloku district all give the city a unique character.
Cape Rodon: Located about 50 km from Durres, Cape Rodon is certainly a place to visit. The beautiful wild nature will leave you speechless. But this small, hilly peninsula, which plunges deeper into the Adriatic Sea, is not just about the scenery, but also about some of Albania’s most important historical and cultural monuments. The promontory is known for the site of the fortress of Scanderbeg, built around 1450, which served an important function as a quick exit to the Adriatic Sea in the event of an Ottoman invasion. The castle was destroyed by the Turks in 1467, but was rebuilt in 1500 by the Venetians, who already occupied the area. The church of St. Anthony, built at the same time as the castle, is also located near the Cape. This Romanesque-Gothic sanctuary houses beautiful frescoes and other valuable pieces. Thanks to its location, the panorama surrounding the church is truly breathtaking.
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Gastronomic experiences – what to taste? Albania’s cuisine is an exciting blend of Mediterranean and Balkan flavours, and Durres in particular offers fresh seafood.
Seafood. You’ll find lots of great pasta or risottos with a variety of seafood, no worse than in Italy! Also very popular are fried squid, prawns, octopus, etc. They are always fresh and delicious. Don’t miss it if you visit the Albanian coast.
Byrek: A Balkan street food classic that you can easily find in Durrës. The Philo cake filled with spinach, meat or vegetables is a must-try. It’s also a great snack for the beach. Small but filling and most importantly – super tasty!
Japrak: Minced meat and rice wrapped in wine leaves. The small but wonderful pieces are cooked for a long time. You can easily find them in restaurants when looking for good local food.
Durres is a place where you can enjoy history and the coastal lifestyle at the same time. The city is not one of the destinations overrun by tourists, so you can still experience the real Albanian culture.