As the new year approaches — well, there are still 30 days to go — it feels like the perfect moment to pop open a bottle of champagne and look back on my recent journeys through France’s legendary Champagne region.
In both 2024 and 2025, I returned to Champagne with wine agent Chiara Bellani, visiting 15 grower-producer estates — all of them true récoltants, using their own grapes to craft their wines. Together we explored an extraordinary list of domaines:
Bérêche & Fils – Charles Dufour – Chartogne-Taillet – David Léclapart – Emmanuel Brochet – François Huré – Georges Laval – JL Vergnon – JM Sélèque – J. Vignier – Lancelot-Roignée – H. Roger Pouillon & Fils – Marie Courtin – Olivier Horiot
Each visit was completely different, each champagne unmistakably unique, each producer fiercely proud of their vines.
Winter in Champagne — UNESCO Landscapes and -7°C Mornings
Our first trip took place in the winter of 2024. Did you know that the UNESCO World Heritage list includes the slopes, houses and cellars of Champagne? Winter makes this absolutely clear.
Sunrises and sunsets paint the hillsides in soft gold and blush pink.
The vines are being pruned, and the cuttings are burned in small bonfires, sending mysterious clouds of smoke drifting through the cold air. Rows of white-painted vine posts stretch across the hills like perfectly drawn lines.
And yes — it is cold. On one morning, stepping outside our accommodation in Villers-aux-Noeuds (Premier Cru), the thermostat read –7°C. Yet with a glass of champagne in hand, the whole atmosphere felt more like a stylish alpine escape than northern France.
Saint Vincent’s Day — Champagne’s Most Beautiful Winter Ritual
The end of the vine’s dormant season is celebrated on 22 January, dedicated to Saint Vincent, patron saint of winegrowers. Why Saint Vincent — a Spanish martyr who likely never drank much wine?
One charming explanation: his name can be split into vin (wine) and cent (from sang, meaning blood). Each village celebrates the day in its own way, often with special brioche, always with a feast — and always in honour of the vineyards.
Back in June — Green Shoots, Cool Breezes and Summer Light
My second visit in 2025 took place in June, when the first tiny grapes had already appeared on the vines and the air was a surprisingly cool 20°C.
The vignerons were busy tying the shoots to wires, creating the green “walls” that help expose leaves and fruit to light and airflow. There is such a raw beauty in this labour — meticulous, repetitive, essential.
A Few Favourite Grower-Producers (Chosen Completely at Random!)
Choosing favourites among grower champagnes is almost impossible — but here are the ones that stayed with me:
Emmanuel Brochet : A tiny 2.5-hectare domaine on the eastern slope of Le Mont Benoit, in Villers-aux-Noeuds. Besides crafting elegant, precise champagnes, Emmanuel is also an artist in his free time — and it shows in his wines.
Olivier Horiot: Located in Les Riceys, in the Côte des Bars — an area famous for its extraordinary rosé made from Pinot Noir.
Jean-Marc Sélèque : He treats blending like composing music. His cuvée Partition combines fruit from seven parcels, each representing a musical note. His vines grow around Pierry, one of the most celebrated Premier Cru villages.
From Knowing Nothing to Understanding Terroir — My Champagne Lessons
When I first visited Champagne, I knew almost nothing about grower-producer champagnes.
I only remembered tasting Roses de Jeanne, the 100% Pinot Noir by Cédric Bouchard — a big name in the world of cult champagne.
If you want to surprise your friends (or bluff your way through Christmas dinner), here are my favourite beginner-friendly tips:
1. Know your crus
The Champagne AOC includes 320 villages.
They are classified by viticultural potential:
- 17 Grand Cru
- 42 Premier Cru
2. Know your grapes
The three major varieties:
- Chardonnay (Blanc de Blancs if 100%)
- Pinot Noir (adds body and structure)
- Pinot Meunier (fruitier, earlier ripening)
Others permitted: Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris.
3. Parcels matter
A parcelle is simply a plot of land.
Vintage vs. non-vintage:
- Millésime (vintage) = one exceptional year
- Cuvée (NV) = blend of multiple years
4. RM vs NM
- RM (Récoltant-Manipulant) = grower-producer
- NM (Négociant-Manipulant) = buys grapes, makes champagne
You’ll always find this on the label.
Exploring Champagne through its grower-producers has changed the way I look at the region. Behind every bottle there is a landscape shaped by centuries, a family working hand in hand with the vines, and a philosophy that celebrates craft over quantity.
Whether in the quiet frost of winter or the bright, early green of summer, Champagne offers endless stories — of soil, tradition, and the people who dedicate their lives to creating something truly exceptional.
If you’re planning a trip to France, let Champagne be more than a celebration drink. Let it be a journey.