Verona – the city of timeless elegance
Verona, this magnificent walled city, is synonymous with the Arena and its moonlit performances, and with the romantic bistros and restaurants lining the Adige river, where the lights of the city reflect on the water.
I first visited Verona in 2016, but even then, I knew it wouldn’t be my last time. The sight of the Arena – the amphitheatre itself – Juliet’s balcony, and the city’s timeless elegance stayed with me.
But there’s another side of Verona waiting to be discovered: quiet streets, secret courtyards, and views that will steal your heart.
Through its cobbled lanes and ancient palazzi, stories unfold that go far beyond the tragedy of Romeo and Juliet – tales of medieval power and of Dante’s wanderings and Pandoro .
Two days in Verona: because one simply isn’t enough.
The Arena – where history and opera meet
Where else to begin, if not with the Arena – the very soul of Verona.
The Arena is a Roman amphitheatre built nearly two thousand years ago, around AD 30, during Emperor Tiberius’ reign. Not only is it remarkable for its age, but it is also the best-preserved Roman theatre still standing today.
The amphitheatre once held up to 22,000 spectators across 44 tiers. Today, it continues to serve its original purpose: hosting concerts, opera performances, and unforgettable summer nights from June to September.
In 2023, the Arena celebrated the 100th Opera Festival, marked by the creation of the Star Rooftop Experience – a panoramic terrace high above the Arena’s ancient arches, just beyond the scars left by the earthquake of 1117.
Only six tables, and an incomparable view of Piazza Brà: a setting where dinner and opera melt into one.
The evening was curated by Mattia Bianchi, the chef of the Michelin-starred Amistà Restaurant, with just 24 lucky guests dining under the stars before attending the performance from the front row.
If you missed it, don’t worry – tickets for the next season are already available on the Arena’s official website.
And here’s a secret: few know that the Arena’s underground chambers are also open to visitors. These spaces once held gladiators and wild animals before the shows began – a haunting and fascinating glimpse beneath Verona’s most iconic monument.
Palazzo Maffei – a house where art lives
From there, we headed to one of Italy’s most beautiful house museums – Palazzo Maffei, dominating the Piazza delle Erbe.
Over the years, Luigi Carlon built an extraordinary collection, from Greco-Roman antiquities to contemporary art. His dream was to find a home for it, and he did – in a 17th-century palace built upon the ruins of Verona’s ancient Capitolium.
From the entrance hall to the spiral staircase and the rooftop terrace, every corner is full of surprises.
The terrace is adorned with statues of Olympian gods – six carved from tuff stone and one marble Hercules who seems to come alive in the afternoon sun.
The heart of the city – Piazza delle Erbe
The Piazza delle Erbe is Verona’s oldest square, once the site of the Roman forum. Today, it’s the city’s beating heart: a lively market surrounded by cafés, towers, and historic façades.
In the centre stands the Madonna Fountain, a 14th-century gift from the Della Scala family – a serene reminder of Verona’s medieval glory.
Across the river – hidden gems and panoramic views
By lunchtime, we crossed the Ponte Pietra bridge to the other side of the Adige.
A happy coincidence led us to Ristorante Antica Ostaria La Stueta, where the charm of old Verona meets modern refinement. The food, the service, the atmosphere – everything was perfect, as if the city itself had prepared the moment.
From there, we walked up to Castel San Pietro. The path leads past the Roman Theatre and through lush gardens, every step worth the effort. From the top, the view of Verona is breathtaking: the towers, the Arena, the river – like a living painting.
We ended the afternoon at Giardino Giusti, a Renaissance garden of cypress trees, sculptures, and grottos that feels like stepping back in time.
Goethe and Mozart once visited this place, and now I understand why – the peace of the garden and the view over the city are both calming and inspiring.
Crossing the Ponte Pietra again at sunset feels like walking through centuries.
The evening took us to Bottega del Vino, Verona’s oldest wine bar – a true temple of Italian wine culture. The 150-year-old walls, shelves lined with bottles, the scent of Amarone… everything speaks of timeless elegance.
In its legendary cellar rest over 14,000 bottles from around the world – but if I could choose just one, it would, of course, be a Veronese.
In Verona, every stone, every square, every flavour tells a story.
This is a city that doesn’t rush – it simply lives, gracefully and timelessly.
And when you stand atop Castel San Pietro at sunset, you’ll understand: Verona is not just a place in Italy. Verona is the Italian way of life.