Monterosso al Mare – Where the Cinque Terre Slows Down and Shines Brighter
If the villages of Cinque Terre were a family, Monterosso would be the free-spirited big sibling—slightly different, proudly independent, but instantly lovable. Maybe that’s why it became my favorite (though the surprise bonus town still has a few tricks up its sleeve).
Monterosso immediately stands apart. Compared to the other four, it feels more open, more spacious, and somehow more relaxed. There’s a clear divide between the “old” town and the newer seaside quarter of Fegina, linked by a tunnel carved beneath the San Cristoforo headland. The historical center has kept its charm, while the modern part tempts sun-lovers with a palm-lined promenade and the best beach in the Cinque Terre—popular with both international visitors and Italian vacationers, myself included.
At the far end of the beach stands the famed statue of Il Gigante—Neptune, god of the sea, once proudly supporting a giant terrace on his shoulders. Time, war, and storms have taken their toll; a particularly fierce one in 1966 tore away his trident and part of his arm. Still, Il Gigante remains one of Monterosso’s most photographed landmarks, a weathered titan that now looks a bit like Atlas, bearing the world’s weight with quiet dignity.
Climb uphill from here, and you’ll find yourself at the Monument to San Francesco d’Assisi. From this peaceful terrace, the view sweeps across the old town, rolling hills, and that shimmering Ligurian blue. Beside the statue stands a striking 17th-century church, its black-and-white façade a bold contrast against the muted gray of the cliffs and the candy-colored houses stacked behind it—pure Liguria.
Hungry from exploring, we found our fix at a tiny focacceria tucked into the old town. The focaccia was still warm, its scent impossible to resist. But the olive oil had other plans—it leaked in the bag, giving my pants a shiny souvenir I hadn’t asked for. Thankfully, fate (and fashion) had my back: a lovely boutique was just around the corner, filled with breezy linen trousers, dresses, and shirts. A quick wardrobe change and we were ready to dive back into Monterosso’s charming streets.
For hikers, this is also the gateway to one of the most scenic sections of the Sentiero Azzurro trail toward Vernazza. (Okay, we came from that direction by train—but if you’re ready for a challenge, start here and hike back.) Think sweeping views, salty air, and that unmistakable Ligurian feeling of freedom.
If you can only visit one village in Cinque Terre, I’d say make it Monterosso. Or save it for last—so your journey ends on a sunlit, sandy high. And if you think you’ve seen it all, there’s still the bonus destination: Levanto. But that’s a story for the next post…