Siena – The Heartbeat of the Palio
I love Siena, just as I love Florence.
But while Florence is the temple of Renaissance art, Siena is unmistakably a medieval city, its life revolving around the contrade—the city districts—and the Palio. This colourful, passionate horse race is not merely a summer event: for the Sienese, it is a way of life, shaping everyday existence from childhood onwards.
To truly understand the Palio, you must be Sienese. You must grow up in a contrada, a second extended family where you feel at home among friends, neighbours, and childhood playmates. Here, the arrival of summer is heralded by something unique: a few days before the July 2nd Palio, tufo—the special racecourse surface—is laid down on the golden stones of the Piazza del Campo. For locals, it is one of the most symbolic moments of the season.
When, on August 16th, the Palio dell’Assunta concludes and the tufo is removed from the square, a nostalgic emptiness settles in your stomach. You know that summer is drawing to a close. Until then, the calendar is filled with festivals, communal dinners, flag-waving displays, and processions.
During the Palio, Siena pulses with life. The narrow streets are filled with flags and colours, the city walls echo with the rhythm of drums. This passion cannot be learned from books—you are either born into it, or you arrive with such profound love and curiosity that, little by little, you weave yourself into the city’s fabric.
Getting to and Exploring Siena
Reaching Siena by car is relatively easy—unless you arrive on Palio day. The entirely walled city welcomes you through massive, ancient gates into history itself. Several car parks are located around the walls, but during the race, spaces fill almost instantly.
One of my favourite morning stops is the charming Torrefazione Fiorella on Via di Città. Here, you can enjoy one of Siena’s finest espressos—and I say that having explored the cafés of both Florence and Rome extensively. You can also take home whole beans or freshly ground coffee to let the aroma of Sienese mornings drift through your own home.
Markets and Local Flavours
The market is the beating heart of Siena. Every Wednesday morning, the area around the Fortezza bursts into life: stalls brimming with clothes, shoes, flowers, kitchenware, fresh fruits, and vegetables. On Fridays, the same space hosts a local farmers’ market, offering wine, olive oil, honey, fresh herbs, bread, and cheeses from the surrounding countryside. I always find something special here—perhaps a jar of fragrant honey, a piece of smoky pecorino, or a bottle of wine that instantly brings back the scent of the Tuscan hills.
Escapes into the Countryside
Siena is encircled by the quintessential Tuscan landscape: olive groves, vineyards, vegetable gardens, and manicured plots of green. Within minutes, you can leave behind the cobblestone streets and red brick walls to lose yourself in a world of rolling hills, cypress trees, and golden sunflower fields.
When to Visit
Only visit Siena during the Palio if you are undeterred by the heat. In August, around Ferragosto, temperatures often reach 40°C. The city is crowded, the atmosphere electric—not only from the sun, but from the passion of the people themselves. Yet even with the sweltering heat… Siena is unmissable.