Pastel-colored houses, vineyards clinging to wild slopes, and aquamarine waters—Riomaggiore is the stuff of Italian dreams.
This cliffside village, the southernmost of the Cinque Terre, is split in two by the railway line. The lower part is the fishing harbor, where colorful boats (called gozzi) gently rock in the sea, fishing nets dry in the sun, and the scent of salt hangs in the air. Just follow the sign for Marina from the main street and you’ll find your way down to one of my favorite spots. No matter how many times I’ve seen those layered houses stacked on the rocks, I never get tired of it.
To reach the station, there’s a pedestrian tunnel decorated with mosaic walls—worth a glance. But honestly, the best way to get to know any of the Cinque Terre villages is just to walk. Let the place slowly open up around you.
Riomaggiore has one main road—Via Colombo—where you’ll find bakeries, shops, and most restaurants. The rest of the village is made up of narrow alleys called caruggi, which twist their way up and down the hillside. When we arrived, I had my very first coffee of the day here, well earned after climbing what felt like an endless staircase from the train. (My daughter actually tried counting the steps but gave up halfway.)
If you’re up for a quieter, more secluded walk, consider the steep path up to the Sanctuary of Montenero (Santuario di Nostra Signora di Montenero). This peaceful spot, dating back to the 11th century, rewards you with panoramic views and a sense of stillness above the crowds.
After all that climbing, it’s time to taste the local wine. Viticulture here is still manual—no machines, only hand-picked grapes and a little monorail that hauls baskets up the terraces. There are two main local wines:
🍷 Cinque Terre DOC, a dry white made from Bosco, Albarola and Vermentino grapes
🍯 Sciacchetrà, a sweet dessert wine made from sun-dried grapes
Don’t know what to eat? Follow the locals and the scent of fritto misto—fried seafood served in a paper cone. Add a chilled glass of white wine and you’re set.
And of course—who doesn’t love a good love story?
Via dell’Amore, the legendary 900-meter path carved into the cliffs between Riomaggiore and Manarola, is finally reopening in 2025 after 12 long years. It’s one of the most scenic walks in the world, and yes, it lives up to the name.
But before we walk on—do yourself a favor: grab a slice of warm focaccia, still crispy from the oven. It was here, in a little bakery tucked into a side alley, that I had the best one of my trip.
Next stop: Manarola. But for now, take your time. Riomaggiore deserves it.