Flavors and Colors of Provence Behind the Wheel of a Vintage 2CV
We explored the vineyards of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez in a truly unique way — aboard a legendary vintage car, the iconic Citroën 2CV, with Antoine Dubois as our driver and guide. Antoine told us that the 2CV is one of the most beloved French cars, made famous by Louis de Funès in numerous films. For the French, it’s as iconic as the Vespa or Fiat 500 is to Italians cruising through Tuscany’s Chianti region.
Provence is world-famous for its rosé wines, but its history runs much deeper: Roman cities like Arles and Aix-en-Provence are a reminder that winemaking here dates back 26 centuries — Provence is, in fact, France’s very first wine region.
Antoine painted a vivid picture of the region: rolling hills draped in blooming lavender fields, medieval villages carved into cliffs, winding oak-forested roads hiding black truffles (the “black diamonds” of Provence). In summer, cicadas sing their song, creating the soundtrack to lazy afternoons by the pool with a glass of rosé so pale it could almost pass for white wine.
Although Provence is far too vast to explore in a single weekend, with Antoine’s help we still managed to taste a slice of it in just two days: a vineyard road trip, long lunches made from garden-fresh ingredients, and bottles from local wineries.
Provence by the Numbers:
- Wineries: 540
- Main grape varieties: Ugni Blanc, Rolle, Sémillon, Clairette (whites); Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Mourvèdre (rosés)
First stop: Château de Chausse, La Croix Valmer
Roseline Schelcher, a self-taught winemaker, is the driving force behind this 15-hectare estate nestled between forest and seashore. Her wines radiate freshness and charm, just like her personality. During a tasting workshop, we learned how Provence rosés are crafted, discovered their complex aromas, and mastered the art of detecting their finest nuances.
Second stop: Domaine de Terrebrune, near Ollioules
This 35-hectare, terraced vineyard faces the Mediterranean and operates entirely organically. Mourvèdre dominates their famous Bandol wines, shaped by Triassic soils and sea breezes. Walking between the vines before retreating to the cool cellar for a glass was unforgettable. Lunch at the estate’s restaurant, La Table du Vigneron, paired local dishes perfectly with their wines.
Third stop: Domaine Tempier, Bandol region
Renowned for its single-vineyard wines, yet the Cuvée Classique alone is a star.
Fourth stop: Château de Pibarnon
Set atop a hill and surrounded by amphitheater-like vineyards, this estate excels in white, rosé, and red wines alike.
Day Two: Cassis
Cassis is home to only 12 wineries (more than half organic) and is unique in Southern France for specializing exclusively in white wines. These wines carry floral, citrus, honeyed, and mineral notes, with a subtle saline touch from the sea breeze. The Clos Ste-Magdeleine estate offers breathtaking views, with vineyards reaching down to the water’s edge and an art deco villa standing guard.
We learned that Cassis whites pair beautifully with fresh fish or the famous Provence fisherman’s stew, bouillabaisse.
According to Antoine, an aged Bandol is perfect with lamb, beef, mushrooms, truffles, or black olive tapenade, while mature rosés work wonders with saffron dishes, white meats, or even Thai cuisine. And, if possible, bring home a few bottles — or better yet, a case — of these treasures.
This weekend was a true journey into the heart of Provence wine country: stunning coastlines, remarkable wines, exquisite gastronomy, and pristine national parks. The people of Provence know how to live — and we were delighted to learn from them.
Coming soon: my recipe for the legendary bouillabaisse — so you can recreate this Provence taste experience at home!