If you’re wondering what to do in Palermo, look no further — this city has a way of surprising you before you even realize what’s happening. Palermo is still one of those places that somehow escapes the classic European city-break list. I’ve always had a soft spot for the underdogs — the cities that stand just outside the spotlight — and I fell for Palermo within minutes. It’s lean and raw, yet full of charm, stunning churches, and a wonderfully vibrant food and wine scene. I love to eat (and drink), and December will be there for dieting — or not… we’ll see.
A lot of people know Palermo from the mafia headlines of the 1970s and ’80s, but time moves on — and so has this city. Victoria’s son, Marcell, told me so much about Sicily’s layered history, especially the many different cultures that ruled this island over time. The Palermo Cathedral is one of the best lessons you can get in architecture. Completed in 1184, the church stands on the site of a former Muslim mosque, and its style blends Norman and Arab influences in the most striking way. Sicily’s new Norman ruler, King Roger II, wanted to speak to every culture and every faith — maybe to avoid rebellion, maybe to build something inclusive, or maybe both.
A City of Churches — and One That Took My Breath Away
With so many churches holding deep historical significance, it would have felt almost disrespectful not to step inside at least a few. Visiting the Chiesa di Santa Caterina was a highlight: the historic convent hides a beautifully ornate interior, and the rooftop view over Palermo and the mountains behind it is one of the most extraordinary panoramas I’ve seen. The view alone was worth the visit.
And then there’s the bakery on-site — a lively little shop where the nuns bake pastries fresh throughout the day. That alone is a reason to stop.
The Norman Palace and the Palatine Chapel — Absolutely Unmissable
My visit to the Norman Palace and the Palatine Chapel became one of the defining moments of my Palermo day. The chapel, located on the second floor, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage list. Every wall glows with gold, covered in some of the most beautiful Byzantine mosaics still visible today. “Breathtaking” is an understatement.
Fontana Pretoria — The Square of Shame
It’s hard to miss the 16th-century marble fountain that was shipped from Florence to Palermo in 644 pieces. It stands only steps away from Quattro Canti, the iconic intersection of Palermo’s two main streets. Surrounding the fountain are statues of animals, nude women, and nude men — which is exactly how the square got its nickname, Piazza della Vergogna, the Square of Shame.
Palermo and Its Food — Love at First Bite
Palermo is synonymous with street food, so I couldn’t skip Mercato di Ballarò. According to Victoria’s family, this is the best market in the city — and they were absolutely right. It’s Palermo’s oldest open-air market, and the atmosphere is unforgettable. Vendors shout, sing, and joke, and locals line up for Pane ca Muesa — Sicily’s famous spleen sandwich. I tried it, and I actually liked it. Not that different from the lampredotto I once had in Florence.
You’ll also find arancini everywhere (usually hotter than the sun) and, of course, sfincione — the local, pizza-like bread.
The market was bursting with color, aromas, spices, and energy, and at times it truly felt like wandering through an Arab souk. No surprise there: the island’s proximity to North Africa and its long history of Arab influence echo on every street corner.
15,762 Steps Through the City
Walking down Palermo’s main street, Via Vittorio Emanuele, is easily one of the best free activities in the city. The traffic-free, arrow-straight road stretches for almost three kilometers from the waterfront, Porto Felice, all the way to Porta Nuova near the Norman Palace. I checked my step counter — 15,762 steps, almost 10 kilometers. I told myself I’d hit 20,000 today. Still working on it.
With a brioche in hand, I reached Quattro Canti, where Vittorio Emanuele meets Via Maqueda. This is probably the busiest meeting point in Palermo. Honestly, I don’t know how anyone finds the person they’re supposed to meet — everyone seems to greet everyone.
Teatro Massimo — And a Touch of Movie History
Palermo is home to Italy’s largest opera house (and the third largest in Europe): Teatro Massimo. I only saw it from the outside this time, but I hope to return — and maybe even see Victoria’s daughter perform ballet here someday. Did you know a scene from The Godfather Part III was filmed inside? I didn’t either — Marcell told me. Apparently it’s a movie I’ll need to watch.
The Perfect Ending: Aperol, Friends, and Cannoli
Later in the afternoon, I ran into the Spanish couple — Carmen and Juan — whom I had explored Tunis with. We grabbed an Aperol at Capocollo, and the snack platter they brought out was so enormous that two staff members had to carry it: cheeses, cured meats, olives, mini burgers, arancini, couscous, sun-dried tomatoes… we could barely finish it.
Walking toward the port, I still managed to stop for a cannoli at a street vendor — one of Sicily’s most iconic desserts. The crisp shell is filled with sweetened ricotta cream, and if you want (of course I wanted), they top it with pistachios.
Palermo — Raw, Real, and Completely Unforgettable
Palermo isn’t a city of polished elegance; it’s a city of raw beauty, where every street corner tells another story. Where history, cultural crossroads, simple food, and genuine people come together to create an energy I haven’t felt anywhere else. One thing is certain: I’ll be back.