When my friend Louise invited me to spend a late-summer weekend at her holiday home in Cagnes-sur-Mer, I knew it would be the perfect escape. Nestled between Nice and Antibes, this charming town combines two very different worlds: the medieval hilltop village of Haut-de-Cagnes and the fishing harbor of Cros-de-Cagnes.
Haut-de-Cagnes: The Montmartre of the Riviera
Perched high above the coastline, Haut-de-Cagnes is one of the Riviera’s most picturesque hilltop villages. Unlike the crowded streets of Èze, it retains a quieter, more authentic charm, with flower-filled alleys, intimate restaurants, and breathtaking views.
Artists and writers have long been drawn to this enchanting village. Simone de Beauvoir once found inspiration here, and the painter Renoir famously said: “This is the place where I want to paint until the last day of my life.” With its soft Mediterranean light and timeless authenticity, it is easy to understand why so many creatives fell in love with Haut-de-Cagnes.
Declared a historic monument in 1948, the village has preserved its medieval character without being overrun by tourism. Bougainvillea climbs the stone walls of centuries-old houses, while the central Place du Château leads to the majestic Grimaldi Castle.
Grimaldi Castle and Chapelle Notre-Dame de Protection
Built around 1300 by Reinier Grimaldi—Lord of Cagnes and Admiral of France—the Grimaldi Castle once served as a coastal fortress. Since 1946 it has hosted a city museum, home to contemporary art exhibitions and local history displays. Climbing the lace-like tower rewards visitors with panoramic views stretching from the Alps to the glittering Mediterranean Sea.
The village’s oldest building, the Chapelle Notre-Dame de Protection, dates back to the 14th century. Originally dedicated as protection against the plague, it houses a remarkable series of frescoes from 1530 that offer a glimpse into the spiritual life of the era.
From Jewelry Legends to Renoir’s Home
Louise surprised me with a visit to the Escailles Solidor, one of the world’s most fascinating jewelry museums. Founded in the 1960s by Suzy Solidor—the cabaret singer, actress, and “most painted woman in the world”—the museum showcases dazzling creations by renowned designers. It is a treasure trove where art, glamour, and history converge.
In the afternoon, we explored the Renoir Museum, set within the painter’s former family home. Surrounded by olive and citrus groves, the property offers sweeping views across Cap d’Antibes. Inside, 14 original Renoir paintings, sculptures, personal belongings, family photographs, and even his easel bring his artistic legacy to life.
Cros-de-Cagnes: A Harbor of Simplicity
Down by the coast, Cros-de-Cagnes remains a working fishing port, with colorful boats and seaside charm. It’s the perfect contrast to the hilltop village—a place where life moves to the rhythm of the waves.
A Weekend to Remember
Two days in Haut-de-Cagnes and Cros-de-Cagnes were the perfect way to end the summer. Between heartfelt conversations with friends, discovering layers of art and history, and soaking in the dazzling Mediterranean views, I left with my heart full.
And of course, no Riviera evening would be complete without a chilled glass of Provence rosé wine, sipped on the terrace as the sun set over the sea—a taste of summer I will never forget.