Fiesole – A Timeless Tuscan Treasure Above Florence

Fiesole boritopng

Sometimes, the most unforgettable experiences don’t happen in the hustle and bustle of cities, but on a quiet hilltop where time slows down and history lingers in every step. That’s exactly how I stumbled upon Fiesole — a small town above Florence that quietly stole my heart. With breathtaking views over the golden Tuscan valley, Fiesole is a place that blends ancient roots with living culture, serenity with depth. It may be modest in size, but it holds treasures that rival any grand destination.

Fiesole
Fiesole

The Etruscan origins of Fiesole are almost tangible. Walking through the Archaeological Area along Via delle Mura Etrusche, you can still see remnants of the ancient city walls. Roman heritage followed in their footsteps — amphitheatre, temple, thermal baths — whispering of a time when this hill was a center of civilization. In summer, the ancient Roman theatre comes alive again during the Estate Fiesolana Festival, hosting music and performances under the stars. It’s magical.

Via delle Mura Etrusche
Archaeological Area

But for me, the most powerful theatrical experience happened inside the walls of Modern Teatro di Fiesole, a vibrant space that brings contemporary art to life. Its artistic director, Alberto Canestro, is not only a visionary choreographer and the heart of Lyric Dance Company, but also my daughter’s classical ballet mentor, and our dear friend. A graduate of the National Academy of Dance in Rome and the Florence Academy of Fine Arts, Alberto is a multi-talented artist who has collaborated with legends of Italian and international dance. His productions — such as Emi Whitehaus and Dances Against Violence — go far beyond movement. They are deeply human, fiercely expressive, and undeniably transformative. Alberto isn’t just an artist. He’s one of the best people I’ve ever met.

Lyric Dance Company
Lyric Dance Company / Alberto Canestro

Just a short walk from the theatre, you’ll find the San Francesco Monastery, perched at the highest point of the town. A steep but scenic path starts at Piazza Mino da Fiesole, winding past the Belvedere terrace with one of the most jaw-dropping views of Florence. The monastery’s Gothic façade and quiet charm invite you to pause, breathe, and simply take it all in.

St Francis Monastery
San Francesco Monastery

For history lovers, Fiesole is a goldmine. The Civic Archaeological Museum displays treasures from the Etruscan and Roman eras. At the Bandini Museum, you’ll find Renaissance and medieval paintings, including beautiful terracottas by the Della Robbia family. And if modern art is more your style, don’t miss the Primo Conti Foundation, dedicated to one of Florence’s most influential 20th-century artists.

One of the most moving discoveries for me was a bronze female lion known as the Lupa Fiesolana. It’s displayed rather humbly, with just a small sign saying “do not touch” — and yet, its raw presence and exquisite craftsmanship are mesmerizing. You can get incredibly close, as if time and museum glass have momentarily stepped aside.

Fiesole is also a haven for nature and sustainable living. Just outside the town lies the Fattoria di Maiano, a sprawling 300-hectare organic farm on the hills between Fiesole and Settignano. This is where Leonardo da Vinci tested his flying machine from the Monte Ceceri peak. The estate includes an historic stone quarry, once used by masters like Michelangelo, Donatello, Brunelleschi, and others to source materials for Florence’s greatest landmarks.

Fattoria di Maiano
Fattoria di Maiano,

And here’s a twist: Fiesole is a hidden paradise for cycling enthusiasts. The Circuito Iridato, part of the 2013 UCI Road World Championships, is a grueling uphill ride from Florence to Pian del Mugnone, passing through Piazza della Libertà. If you’re craving a challenge — or just want to follow in the tracks of champions — this route will test your legs and lift your soul.

For me, Fiesole wasn’t just a day trip. It was a memory in motion — one that deepens with every return, with every performance, and with every ballet slipper my daughter laces up.
This is a place where personal stories blend with ancient stones, where friendship, art, and heritage live side by side. If you’re visiting Florence, don’t stop at the famous piazzas. Look up. And take the short journey to Fiesole. There, the real Tuscany is waiting.