If you want to immerse yourself in Italian culture and travel like a local, Lucca is a must-visit on your Tuscan itinerary. Picture a fully preserved city wall, 4 kilometers long and 12 meters high, enclosing everything Tuscany has to offer. Step inside, and you’re instantly in one of the most fascinating Tuscan towns.
We arrived by train, and right at the station, I unfolded my map to choose which of the six gates we would enter through. Lucca’s train station is just five minutes outside the city walls, and we entered through Porta San Pietro. The town is often called the “City of 100 Churches,” reflecting its rich historical and religious heritage.
While Lucca is famous for its antique markets, we came for a different reason: music. My mother, a passionate classical music fan, inspired us to visit the Puccini House and Museum, the composer’s birthplace in 1858. The house has been carefully restored to honor Puccini’s life and work, captivating even those less familiar with classical music.
Meanwhile, my husband was drawn to a nearby artisan shoe shop. He became the happy owner of a handcrafted pair, made in the very same workshop where Puccini’s shoes were once crafted.
Lucca’s city center is unique: one main square resembles a Roman amphitheater. Buildings were tightly constructed around the ancient theater, and when the structure became obsolete, it was demolished, leaving the circular layout intact—a characteristic only found in Italy.
For lovers of late Romanesque and Gothic architecture, Lucca is a treasure. The San Martino Cathedral is stunning inside and out, home to a wooden crucifix portraying Christ alive, said to have been modeled by Nicodemus. The famous Volto Santo attracts hundreds of thousands of pilgrims every year. Don’t miss Tintoretto’s famous Last Supper in one of the side chapels, and in the sacristy, admire the marble tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, so lifelike she seems to be peacefully sleeping rather than carved from marble.
Another iconic site is San Michele in Foro, built on the site of the ancient Roman forum. Its white marble façade and the archangel Michael atop the roof are striking, and the square remains a lively local gathering place.
Lucca’s Torre Guinigi, with its tree-topped roof, stands at the corner of Via Sant’Andrea and Via delle Chiavi d’Oro, 45 meters high. This is the only surviving medieval residential tower with a small rooftop garden, originally designed by the Guinigi family. The trees have been replaced over the centuries, keeping the tower faithful to its original appearance.
The Torre delle Ore, Lucca’s tallest tower, dates back to the 13th century and was later purchased by the city. Bells and a clock mechanism were installed in 1752 and still function today. A wooden staircase of 207 steps leads to the top, offering a breathtaking view of the city.
Lucca has preserved its authentic atmosphere, unlike nearby Pisa or Florence, which are overrun by tourists. This is a city where you can truly enjoy the Italian lifestyle without the crowds.