I won’t deny it—my first encounter with Cortona happened on the pages of a book and the silver screen. Reading Frances Mayes’ memoir Under the Tuscan Sun: At Home in Italy and later watching Audrey Wells’ film adaptation awakened something deep in me. It was more than a longing for Italy—it was a yearning for a way of life: a stone house nestled on a hillside, dinners savored on a sunlit terrace, cypress trees lining winding roads, and Bramasole—the villa whose windows open toward the Val di Chiana. That villa, which Mayes transformed into a sanctuary from the world, remains a modern-day pilgrimage site to this day.
But if you think Cortona is captivating only because of this fame, think again.
This Tuscan hill town has lived and breathed for centuries before it became a literary icon. As you ascend into Cortona, it feels as though the past and present are meeting mid-air in a quiet handshake. Perched high above the soft, rolling hills of the Val di Chiana, the town is no mere postcard fantasy—it truly enchants. I first arrived one July afternoon, when the sunflower fields below were at their radiant peak and the cypress trees standing sentry along the road pointed the way like nature’s own signposts.
Layers of History Beneath the Surface
Before I even dipped into my gelato in the heart of the Piazza della Repubblica, I felt the gravity of the town—not of the crowds, but of its history. Cortona was founded by the Etruscans, fortified by the Romans, and later shaped by medieval artisans. Stone walls still embrace the town, as if guarding centuries of stories, battles, and legends.
Santa Margherita: A Symbol of Faith Etched into the Hillside
From the lower valleys, you can already glimpse the Basilica of Santa Margherita, standing like the soul of the city. Dedicated to Cortona’s patron saint, Margherita, the church echoes with tales of her sacrifice and devotion. Sitting on the broad stone steps of the nearby Palazzo del Capitano, I watched the square unfold before me and realized: time doesn’t rush in Cortona. Every corner feels like a whispered invitation to slow down and discover.
Thanks to its elevated position, Cortona offers breathtaking 360-degree views of the Val di Chiana and Lake Trasimeno. On a sultry afternoon, I climbed to the Fortezza del Girifalco, the fortress perched above town, and looked out over a sea of yellow sunflowers swaying in the breeze. The panorama was dreamlike. With the hot wind brushing past, it felt like Tuscany was revealing its most authentic self.
Where Time Slows and Magic Endures
Cortona is not a place to rush through. It asks you to pause, to sit on a shaded bench, to listen to church bells ringing in the distance, to observe locals sharing stories over their morning espresso. Every moment here lingers—and that is its quiet power.
Whether you’re tracing the steps of Frances Mayes or discovering it on your own, Cortona promises not just a visit, but a change of pace, a deep breath, a rediscovery of simplicity. And in a world that moves too fast, perhaps that’s the most luxurious journey of all.