Bologna is one of those cities you don’t truly discover just once — you return to it, again and again. I had already been here before, most recently with Olivia when she was heading back to the United States. This time, however, the reason was entirely different: ballet.
Three full days shaped by my daughter’s rehearsal schedule. While she spent her hours on stage, I wandered through the city — slowly, attentively, letting Bologna reveal itself moment by moment.
My first walk instinctively led me to Piazza Maggiore, the beating heart of the city, where history, everyday life and celebrations intersect. Standing in the middle of the square, it wasn’t only the Christmas atmosphere that caught my attention, but also a striking contemporary art installation. In front of the city library stood the so-called “megaliths” — oversized, stone-like structures rising up to 14 meters high, creating an almost surreal presence.
The installation was inspired by the Japanese concept of Iwagumi, referring to the harmonious placement of rocks in a landscape. At night, these monumental forms illuminated the Crescentone, sparking lively debates among locals about contemporary art and how it should exist within shared urban spaces. Driven by curiosity — and a desire for perspective — I climbed the city hall tower to admire the installation from above.
Just a short walk away stand Bologna’s most iconic landmarks: the Two Towers, Garisenda and Asinelli. These medieval structures are not only architectural marvels but also symbols of the city’s former power and ambition. The Garisenda Tower was originally around 60 meters tall, but due to unstable ground it was reduced to 48 meters in the 14th century. The taller Asinelli Tower was built by the wealthy Asinelli family and later served as a prison after the city acquired it. Normally, visitors can climb to the top for panoramic views over Bologna’s terracotta rooftops — unfortunately, it was closed during my visit.
Directly opposite the towers, however, awaited a different kind of highlight: a legendary mortadella sandwich shop. Mortadella is Bologna’s most famous cured meat, and here it is taken seriously. Inside a warm, freshly baked rosetta roll lay nearly 100 grams of mortadella — generous, indulgent, unapologetic. No wonder Bologna is often nicknamed “la grassa”, meaning “the fat one.”
Yet food is only part of Bologna’s identity. The city is also known as “la dotta” — “the learned one.” Founded in 1088, the University of Bologna is widely considered the oldest university in the Western world. Its libraries and academic buildings create a unique atmosphere where centuries of learning, debate and intellectual life still feel very much alive.
Before nightfall, I returned once more to Piazza Maggiore to step inside the vast Basilica of San Petronio. Dedicated to Bologna’s patron saint, who served as bishop in the 5th century, construction began in 1390 — yet the main façade remains unfinished to this day. This incompleteness somehow adds to its character, reflecting a city that has always remained open, evolving and unfinished in the best possible way.
Soon after, it was time to head back. The first day had come to an end, and Florence — just under an hour away by train — awaited us.
Bologna deserves a chapter of its own for its porticoes. With over 60 kilometers of continuous arcades, the city boasts the longest network of porticoes in the world. They shelter pedestrians from rain and summer heat, making walking comfortable year-round. Originating in the Middle Ages, the porticoes allowed buildings to expand upward while maintaining public space below, perfectly adapting to Bologna’s dense urban fabric and student life.
It is no coincidence that in 2021, Bologna’s porticoes were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. Among them, the most famous is the Portico di San Luca, stretching nearly four kilometers with 666 arches, leading up to the sanctuary overlooking the city. But that story deserves its own dedicated post.
These three days in Bologna were far more than sightseeing. They became a slow, personal exploration of art, history, food and everyday life — a delicate balance that defines this city. And while my daughter prepared on the ballet stage, I found myself falling in love with Bologna all over again.