My French friend Isabelle and her family came to Tuscany for three days. Although they had already visited the region several times, Volterra and its surroundings had somehow always been left out. Now, with autumn bringing cooler weather, we finally decided it was time to explore Volterra and its countryside in depth.
Volterra is a truly unique town: built on clay, it stands high above the Tuscan hills. On a clear day, you can see almost the whole of Tuscany from here – all the way to Monte Cimone (2,165 meters high), and even Pisa and the Arno River appear in the distance. The town itself perfectly embodies everything you imagine when you think of Tuscany: at once historical and alive, a blend of open-air museum and quiet town, where time slows down. It’s one of those places I always recommend, whether it’s your first trip to Tuscany or your tenth.
Our first stop was the Archaeological Park, once the site of the acropolis. From 1500 BC until 1472 AD, this was the heart of the city, until Florence conquered and burned Volterra. Today, it’s a large grassy area, next to the imposing Medici Fortress, which now functions as a prison and is only rarely open to the public. Inside the park, we descended the ancient Roman cistern from the 1st century. At 7 meters deep, reached by a spiral staircase, it is astonishing to see how this water system has survived intact for centuries – a true masterpiece of Roman engineering.
Following the medieval walls, we arrived at one of Volterra’s highlights: the Roman Theatre. Built in the 1st century BC, it was in use until the 3rd century AD, when stones were removed to construct ornate baths. The remains of these baths are still visible just behind the theatre, including a small round sauna. Rediscovered only in the 1950s, the theatre is one of Volterra’s hidden treasures, a reminder of the city’s rich past.
We continued along Via Gramsci, the wide main street, and stopped at the tiny Oratorio di Sant’Antonio. These small chapels often feel more moving than the grand cathedrals – intimate spaces that still carry centuries of devotion.
For lunch, we enjoyed a plate of tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms – the perfect autumn dish. Simple, flavorful, and seasonal, it was yet another reminder that in Tuscany, food is as much a part of the experience as history and landscapes.
In the afternoon, we wandered the medieval streets of Volterra. Every corner offered a new discovery: an alabaster workshop, a small artisan shop, or a hidden view across the Tuscan countryside. These little surprises are what make the city so enchanting – a place you can return to again and again, always finding something new.
Our first day in Volterra was filled with ancient ruins, Roman heritage, medieval charm, and authentic Tuscan atmosphere.
👉 On the second day, we set out to discover a secret Tuscan town – stay tuned for the continuation of our journey.